Notes from Bombay

Within the variety of contradictions (in mind) that exists within India, there were three things that stood out to me about Bombay, especially in contrast to Bangalore. The first two, a more general statement I discovered during our touring time of Bombay, are the variety of churches and religions represented in the area as well as the entrepreneurial spirit alive in much of its population. The third, which come as a result of dining and discussing Bombay with locals I knew in the area, is the evolving roll of women in Indian business.

Pick a church, any church

I admit that for its size Bangalore represents more than one religion; namely Hinduism, Islam and Christianity. Yet their size, scope and variety pale in comparison to that of Bombay. I suppose I find this most interesting because even in Delhi, another large city, I encountered very few non-Hindu temples. In contrast, in the single day I was able to tour around Bombay with a small group, I visited a Hare Krishna temple, a Buddhist temple, a prominent Catholic church—the oldest in Bombay—as well as a Hindu temple, the Haji al Dargah mosque, and a Jain temple. Even more inspiring was that unlike the U.S. where many would be empty with the exception of tourists snapping photos, each was bustling with active worshipers.

What I found even more intriguing (and delightful) is the artistic interpretations of the various deity and/or gods each of these structures were built to worship as well as how Indian culture has been incorporated into each. Recognizing that several of these come from Indian scripture, it was still interesting to see how fundamental beliefs are interpreted amidst local surroundings. Thus, seeing baby Jesus with Indian features and complexion, Mary with a bindi, and local fruits and floral garlands given in supplication to the gods were new to my western eyes.

I hear often from my boyfriend that he feels no loyalty to a country that consistently turned its back on Muslims, his heritage. Visiting these various religion sites gave me hope that the gaps between religions, especially Islam and Hinduism would eventually be able to heal. However, when I had dinner with my boyfriend’s family I shared this thought with them and the generations quickly divided. The teenage boys said, “of course they will, I have a lot of Muslim friends and we don’t care about that stuff like older people do.” Yet the adults dismissed their thoughts, saying, “They’re young and don’t know what they’re talking about. Give them a few years and they won’t be friends anymore. The divide between our cultures will get worse, not better.” My sadness at this outlook was compounded when talking to other local friends who were ecstatic at the thought of my dating an Indian. However, when they discovered he was a Muslim Indian, I could see as they tried to hide the shock and annoyance on their faces. “It’s not that they’re bad people, I just haven’t met a single trustworthy Muslim,” they said. As the night went on they’d try telling me about Muslim friends they had that were nice, but the stories always ended the same: no Muslim is trustworthy or kind. The only argument I could say on both sides was that regardless of beliefs, if a person lived their religious they will be a good person.

The wily entrepreneur

In the book I read before the program began Making Breakthrough Innovation Happen: How 11 Indians Pulled Off the Impossible, I was surprised to learn that Indians don’t think of themselves and entrepreneurs. Instead, they view themselves as more of a yes-man to the developed countries. This saddened me because I’d learned during my previous visit that so many early accomplishments such as the decimal system and the concept of zero, plastic surgery (for good or bad) came from India. Through colonization and India’s growth as a new country, I guess India lost its way.

In the increasingly globalized world India is attempting to get back on track. In Bangalore I was able to witness firsthand how companies and institutions were trying to overcome this yes-man mentality and expand the already booming information sector as well as diversify outside it. Despite lack of structure of funds, Bombay was as example of the many innovative ways people can make a living. I realize my experience was a blip on the map, but seeing vendors’ peddle creative goods made from what someone in the U.S. would just discard, passing vendors who set up shops for food, jewelry, cleaning, reflexology and garment making wherever there was a free space—I call that an entrepreneurial spirit!

These small businesses could even be superseded by the growing businesses found in Dharavi. A slum in America is synonymous with stagnation; a place with dwindling to no business, unless you count the unsavory kind. In contrast, the Dharavi slums were bustling with entrepreneurs recycling cruise trash, paint barrels, aluminum products, fabricating cloth, baking and delivering goods etc. During our tour of the business sector of Dharavi, we even met a man who was in the process of moving his business to north Bombay so he could expand his business, “we’ve been here 25 years, however in order to expand and meet customer needs, we must move elsewhere.”

It’s Tradition

In every single city I’ve been to besides Bombay, I’ve asked myself, “Where are the women?” Whether it was a small hill station, a budding metropolis or a medium and growing city, it was a rare occasion to see women, let alone to see groups of them out and about for pure entertainment. Not only do you feel slightly out of place due to your skin color (and in my case my hair color) As a female tourist but also because you are often the only women wandering about, especially at night. My friends have explained to me that in Indian culture it is important for women to be escorted by a male if they want to go out in public. Not only is this important from a cultural perspective but also from a safety perspective due to the high rate of violence against women.

In contrast, from the time we landed in Bombay it was refreshing to see equal amounts of men and women out and about. I encountered groups of local women shopping for clothes, wandering the streets, meeting for tea or brunch, and even managing shops. When I expressed this to friends they explained that Bombay was a much more “civil and open society,” in contrast to the archaic way women are treated and viewed by men in the more “traditional north,” and therefore a much safer place for women.

I was even happier to see that once the group reached Bombay several of our lecturers were women, such as Poorima Dore’s focus on NGOs as well as Dimple Bhandia’s focus on the financial sector. This further demonstrates that within India it is possible for women to be seen on equal footing in terms of job performance. I don’t consider myself a feminist, but it is slightly disheartening as a woman working on a master’s degree to feel so out of place. When I met a few family friends in Delhi, I found that I had more in common with the men than the woman as we discussed the focus of my education. I freely gave my opinion about politics, religion, economics etc., yet I was the only female in the room to do so. I realize that this is somewhat of a sweeping generalization, thus it was refreshing in Bombay to see that indeed there are women I could connect with on an educational level within India.

As a bustling metropolis Bombay had a unique feel; a western and modernizing twist to the Indian culture you see elsewhere in India.  This metropolis creates room for more religious diversity (and hopefully tolerance), a space for budding entrepreneurs who are making the most of their situations, as well as creating a space for Indian women outside their traditional roles within India.